All, Inspire
We’ve lost count of our visits to this unbelievable city. Everything we had heard about the place jabbed at our curiosity, and when we finally got here, the reality blew our mind. It’s even bigger, better and crazier than we had first imagined. And we simply love it.
But a question struck us this time around as we filmed something unexpected amid the classic onslaught that is Shibuya crossing.
We had lined up a shot from a great vantage point (see our post on Filming Shibuya Crossing) as several thousand people below us formed opposing battle lines. As if the crossing isn’t dramatic enough already, something crazy happened just a fraction of a moment before the lights went green.
Some random nut-bag galloped across our viewfinder into the middle of the crossing and cartwheeled into a handspring. It was as if he was doing a solo dance-off in the world’s biggest dance battle ring, centre frame. The hoards surged forward anyway, and the pedestrian battlefronts collided in the middle of the road as they always did, swallowing him back up.
We had to admire his work, and at least Saxon can’t say he didn’t feel pretty impulsive when he was down there filming earlier too. And then we wondered – why does Tokyo inspire crazy? The great people of this awesome city go way outside the envelope when it comes to finding new ways to get zany. Examples are easy to stumble upon:
Street Performance
Go to Harajuku station on any Sunday and by the entrance to Yoyogi Park, you’ll see a small crowd of Rockabilly-types. Greased quiffs, leather jackets, tight jeans and pointy boots, blaring that Ol’ Time Rock n’ Roll – with a Tokyo twist, of course. You wont see more enthusiastic dancing this side of Glee. They’re not simply there for the tourists either – they’re not busking for change – they do it for the sheer joy. They have been for 20 years or so.
Cozplay and Tokyo Fashion
All cities like to say they have style. Paris, Milan, London and New York – all can lay claim to being centres and generators of fashion. But step foot on the streets of Tokyo and you’re playing a whole new game here. Your favourite anime and computer game characters might brush past you at any moment – no matter how colourful or outlandish.
There are tribes of fashionistas, each loyally subscribing to their trend – inspired by fiction or game characters, by pop bands, toys, manga, or almost anything. It’s mostly teenagers, but who can blame them – even the school uniforms have swagger.
Advertising and TV
OK, this one isn’t just Tokyo, but a lot of it either starts here or is taken to the next level. The Japanese didn’t invent variety shows, but they make them damn entertaining.
They did invent “Brain Wall” (Human Tetris) and where else can you watch an Olympic sprinter race a giraffe? Whether you should or not is another question, but you can’t say that it isn’t the type of entertainment that crosses the language barrier.
Maid Cafes
Just. Plain. Weird. ‘Electric City’ Akihabara has a bunch of these – pretty girls in frilly French maid outfits speaking like children, encouraging grown adults to ‘Nyang Nyang’ for service (that’s ‘Meow Meow’ in Japanese) and addressing you as ‘Master’. You pay triple for this of course. No filming here, so I’m afraid you’ll have to go to Japan and see it for yourself.
Japanese Toilets
Yes, they are all they’re cracked up to be (ehem). A panel of buttons beside the electrically warmed seat give you complete control over guided water jets, air blasts, air fresheners and even flushing sounds to disguise other noises. You’ll feel a little like you’re seated at the controls of a fighter jet.
Water temperature, blast pressure and direction can all be mastered from here. There are even helpful (and amusing) illustrations so don’t be scared, give all the buttons a try and hold on to your seat.
Signage
All over Japan, they’ve ditched standard icon-style instructive signage in favour of much more detailed comic illustration. Extremely helpful when you don’t understand the language, but moreover, so much more amusing – don’t show us an icon of a labourer with a shovel like the classic ‘men at work’ road sign. Instead, we want to see a little pink bunny in a construction helmet and high-vis jacket, bowing deeply and apologetically for the disruption to traffic.
You wont see a simple ‘no littering’ sign. Instead, you’ll see an angry little fish’s disgusted reaction to the trash washed down the drain into the sea. And you’ll have nothing lost in translation when, on a ‘no dog poop’ sign, you even see the cute little puppy’s facial expression as he contemplates what he’s just done.
Robot Burlesque
Wait – bikini girls battling futuristic tanks while riding neon-lit robot dinosaurs as you dine? Yes, really. Book your ticket to Tokyo. Now.
The list would be about as long as the list of neighbourhoods in Tokyo, multiplied by the length of time it takes for a crazy fad to run its course. Which still begs the question, what is it that inspires such extremes?
It may be the culmination of a huge number of things – population density (over 35 and a half million people squeezed into the greater Tokyo metropolitan area), strict rules, rigid social order and pressures might all mean there’s a greater appreciation for new and inventive entertainment and ways to blow off steam.
There’s also a rich history of appreciation of the arts and design, and of refinement and presentation, and a culture of embracing new technology. Then there’s the great attitude of the people of Tokyo. The positive welcome you feel when you’re here, and a sense of encouragement, like the people you meet really want you to enjoy this city and the marvels in it. They want you to try new things, to experiencing the Japan they’re proud of, and they love to see you enjoying it.
Crazy seems to loves company too, so each Next Big Thing needs to be just a little more over-the-top to get noticed above the clamour of fresh and creative new ideas. And once an idea gains a little traction, trends, fashions, events and general craziness spread fast through the most densely packed, wondrous and most fascinating city in the world.
All, Learn
Packing clothes for somewhere you’ve never been before is always a bit of a tricky endeavour, especially if you’re heading on a trip through varied climates. Before setting off, you may have no idea whether, once you’ve reached your destination, you’ll be too warm, to cold or look like a bit of a tool dressed in your bright pink spandex tech windbreaker whilst surrounded by sensible locals clad in bearskin fur coats.
But before you go off and spend lots of money on a stylish mink and matching rabbit hat (prices are around 700% inflated in Russian winter!), see how we fared with our UK bought outfits and Russian essential additions for minus teen winter fun.
Coats
Coats are obviously a very important part of your kit, and Nicola has been very happy with her Rab Neutrino Plus down coat, whilst Saxon has been keeping warm in his urban style snowboard jacket. For a full lowdown on the selection process, check out our previous post.
But just like a good break beat track, the best coat is nothing without base layers. Outdoor outfitters will happily tell you all about their latest hit technological breakthrough, but quite honestly, we preferred it simple and raided Japan’s answer to “we only have that t-shirt in brown and size 14”: the mighty Uniqlo.
Base Layers
Uniqlo’s heat tech range is surprisingly light, super comfortable and effective at a) keeping you warm and b) stopping you from smelling bad after 4 days without a shower. Leggings, socks, tank tops, and long sleeved t-shirts (some with micro fleece lining) were already essential wearing around London. But pair these with a micro light down body warmer or undercoat (don’t be fooled by their apparent flimsiness, we’ve been thanking the universe every day for their existence) and you’ve got some really solid insulation going on that would even make a nerpa sit up and take notice.
Uniqlo was also the provider of Saxon’s fur lined hoodie (ooooh!) and Nicola’s fleece lined gym trousers (aaah!), and we have both been boring our fellow travellers with how much we love them. Nicola’s famed Blue Ninja fleece (with added ears) came from H&M’s sportswear section when she went sailing – beat the system, life-saving hoodie for £20.
Trousers
Now you’re all cosy up top (don’t worry, fashionistas, there’s going to be a whole separate accessories section below), we have found our soft shell, fleece lined, plain snowboard trousers from Mountain Warehouse very good for the reasons that a) we didn’t look like idiots on the way to St Anton whilst walking around Moscow and b) we could easily slip into and out of them on the Trans-Siberian, when we switched from tropical heat inside the train to -26 degrees outside when stretching our legs and shock freezing the insides of our noses during 10 minute stops.
Shoes
Decent footwear is essential, and (in this rare occasion), don’t be seduced by furry bits, especially if it’s only trim. Nicola’s North Face Snow Drift Hiking Boots have kept her feet as warm as can be (although due to bad genes she still gets toe freeze after a few hours standing around trying to make the tripod do what it’s supposed to), whilst Saxon’s fake Estonian Timberlands have been amazing (to purchase a pair, just look for the dodgy shop to the left of Tallinn’s old town south exit and ask for Olev. Bring a bottle of vodka).
If you want to go crazy arctic, Smartwool extra heavy crew socks are your thing and will give you the sensation of putting your feet into a towel. Alternatively, if you’re in wetter climates, a UK-Russian family run company called KeepTex do pretty awesome waterproof socks (amongst other gear). If you can’t read their website, send them an email in English – they are lovely.
Accessories (yey!)
Yes, dear stylish friends, we have finally arrived at accessories, the cherry on the cake of your winter wardrobe. Hurrah! Before we start, we would like to point out that due to the Trans-Siberian’s love of over-heating the carriages, we found our bikinis and board shorts most useful. Oh, the irony. Now back to the expected stuff.
Whilst you’ll probably have a couple of changes of underclothes, accessories are close to your skin but you’ll wear the same things all the time, so make sure they are warm and comfortable.
First off, get some gloves. And take them with you when you leave the hotel room (Saxon!). A pair of fingerless ones and a pair of fleece ones (thanks for ‘lending’ them to Nicola, cousin Charlie!) that are big enough to fit over the fingerless ones (and small enough to fit into the thumb loops of your H&M sports hoodie!) and you’ll be the most prepared and able photographer on the planet, switching around settings and tapping touch screens without losing your extremities to frostbite.
Hats wise, you’ll need something that covers your ears, so whether it’s a badger face nit job from Primani, a Moscow flea market bought rabbit skin extravaganza or one of KeepTex’s super-cool waterproof beanies is entirely up to you. Don’t leave it in your hotel room. (Saxon.)
Finally, you’ll most definitely need a good scarf. Much like the hitchhiker’s guide to the galaxy’s towel, the scarf is a multi purpose must have item of Siberian clothing with Topshop currently stocking some awesomely coloured fluffy wonders and retailers and street stalls around the world catering for the less (or even more) garishly minded.
Or you could always wear a towel.
And thus, we come to the end of our first hand account of clothes for surviving Siberia. Remember, shopping around will save you money – we got our biggest buys at less (sometimes half!) shop price just by comparing providers, for example these guys, whilst not the cheapest, were pretty awesome with their customer service. And do let us know in the comments below if you have found other items of clothing essential for your travels. We’d love to hear from you!
All, Inspire
The Trans-Siberian: Moscow -> Vladivostok
You’re plugged in. If you’re reading this, you’re online right now, so you’ve already checked status updates from distant mates and some breaking international news. Now you’re about to go on a digital journey halfway across the planet with the Rat & Dragon crew, all from the comfort of wherever you’re sitting – and that is pretty special.
This makes the world inside our heads and handsets more massive, while the physical world seems ever smaller. So with our brains increasingly plugged into the digital world, are we losing touch with what distance in the physical world really feels like?
9,288. That’s the number of kilometers between Moscow (technically Europe) and the terminus of the Trans-Siberian railway at the edge of the Pacific Ocean. There’s even a plaque on the platform at Vladivostok Station that says so. As we feel its cold bronze numbers with our own fingertips after departing Moscow 10 days ago, it’s fully apparent to us what 9,288 kilometers looks, feels, sounds and even smells like. The staggering breadth and beauty of the entire physical world is back in sharp focus. Welcome to the Trans-Siberian…
Days and Days on a Train
The steel hulk of our new home rolled out of Moscow’s Yaroslavl Station and we set in for the first 4-day section. In one go, it would take about 7 days on the Rossiya Train to Vladivostok, but we would break the journey a little over half way. Gradually, we slipped into the rhythm of the wheels on the tracks and filming, eating, sleeping and staring out at the frosted landscape all fell in step.
Early on we discovered our Internet access was not what we’d been promised by our mobile network providers and frustration set our brows into furrows. After all, we had work to do. Rat & Dragon are in the business of broadcasting our business, so without reliable Internet, we were feeling the strain. There was plenty of shooting and planning to do of course, so we carried on with our mission for content to knock your socks off, but always with the niggling feeling that while what we shot was amazing, we had to keep it to ourselves for the time being…
Irkutsk and the Greatest Lake in the World
Irkutsk is a sprawling town en-route and home to Anatoly, a Siberian mate from way back, local tour guide and linguist. Irkutsk is also our journey break-point, and perfect for accessing Lake Baikal, ‘The Pearl of Siberia’.
We joined Anatoly (or Toly for short) for a home cooked meal and drinks straight off the train – this happened to be New Years Eve after all, the biggest party on the Russian winter calendar (with Christmas lagging far behind in importance) and the perfect occasion to share in authentic Russian style.
First thing on the very first morning of the brand new year, we shared a bus to Listvyanka on the shore of Lake Baikal with a bunch of energetic explorers on a Vodkatrain tour. We spent the next 3 days catching up with Toly, getting our wifi fix, and filming around the greatest freshwater lake in the world.
Lake Baikal smacks you in the face with it’s beauty, it’s backdrop and it’s statistics. It’s the deepest lake on earth, the frozen chalice to 20% of the entire planet’s liquid freshwater supply, and home to the world’s only freshwater seal, the cute-as-hell puppy-like Nerpa. After filming lakeside it was off through the crystal-white forest on a sled behind a husky team.
Dog Sledding
Huskies are gorgeous, but entirely bonkers – which makes for excellent filming. So desperate to run, the howling rabble of about 30 huskies went nuts in the hope of being chosen. As soon as a handler clipped a dog into the harness, it’s legs started running, even if the harness was pegged to the ground. That meant once the team of 8 dogs was in place behind a tethered sled, they became a writhing, yelping, hilarious tangle. As soon as you’re aboard and the sled is released however, the dogs power forwards in military formation and whisk you away at speed with the wind in your furry hat.
The sensation is something magical. The sled is smooth on its snowy track, the dogs finally shut up and all you can hear is the swoosh of sled on snow and the soft panting of the huskies – an elegant soundtrack for the winter forest as it rushes by.
All, Learn
The Rat & Dragon crew has now clocked up around 500 hours travelling and filming both the Trans-Siberian and the Trans-Mongolian rail routes, so we’d like to think we’ve picked up some practical knowledge along the way. If you’re thinking of parking your butt on a train for days on end across either of these incredible routes and want to know what to expect, here’s some useful stuff we’d like to tell you about life aboard the Russian railways.
The Trains
The R&D crew chose Kupe – 2nd class tickets, which are in shared, 4-berth cabins. There are 2 bunk beds on either side of a cozy cabin that are comfy enough. There’s a little space for storing luggage (if you’re on the bottom bunk it’s more secure in a bin under the bed) and there’s tiny table by the window, which is just big enough for a game of cards, a few glasses and a bottle of vodka.
There are other classes – 1st puts you in a 2-berth private cabin at about double the price, and Platskartny, or open carriage, is sociable and great for short (overnight) journeys. It’s cheap too, but has no privacy and we wouldn’t recommend it for longer journeys.
Russians take their heating seriously. We travelled in mid-winter and, while the atmosphere outside was busy snap-freezing the landscape into bride-white with it’s minus 24 degree breeze, the heating inside maintained the inside of the carriages to a Saharan sweat box standard.
All times displayed on timetables, tickets and in stations across Russia are expressed in Moscow time – despite the 7 time zones traversed in a single Trans-Siberian journey. Make sure you know what Moscow time equates to in local time and never confuse the two.
Sharing
If you’re travelling with less than 3 mates, be prepared to make some new ones, as randoms will be popping in and out as you travel. Shareable snacks and drinks will help break the ice with your new bunkmates. It’s a bit of a roll of the dice as to who you end up with – we went from English speaking tech-geek students to sullen, surly worker-types to lovely hockey mum and daughter combos.
Most people are conscientious and willing to help. It’s so worth it to try your darndest to communicate across language differences – fellow passengers can make your trip, or make for one hell of a travel story. Russians are notoriously grumpy at first, but even the most serious frowner can turn out to be absolutely lovely after 20 mins of simple chatting.
Carriage Attendants
Each carriage is attended by a team of 2 Provodniks (more likely Provodnitsas – female attendants). They’re famously stern and highly unlikely to speak English, but can be very helpful to you, and fiercely protective of the peace and stability of your carriage so don’t make her angry. Ask them for water, for the local time, where to plug in your electric razor (they need to turn certain sockets on), and tea glasses. They also sell snacks after hours.
Bathrooms
Toilets can be a little on the grotty side, but totally passable if you’ve ever backpacked before. They empty straight out onto the tracks so they’re locked about 30 minutes before and after each major stop – unless you have a bladder of steel, make sure you refer to the timetable in the hallway. For a unique thrill, try flushing while seated and -30 degrees outside (we weren’t game enough, but if you try it, tell us what it’s like).
Showers are a little like the four-leaf clover. You will hear rumors of them, a ‘friend of a friend’s hairdresser’ saw one once, but you might never find one. Rat & Dragon, however, can confirm a sighting – one bathroom about 6 carriages down from ours was converted into a ‘shower’ – really only a hose & showerhead attached to glorious hot water in the sink. While far from a luxurious experience, a makeshift shower was heaven by day 3 of 4.
Eating and drinking
There’s a restaurant car, which must be explored. Pictures in the menu are no indication of what your meal will actually look like, but the rough English translations are helpful and entertaining. While overpriced, you are watching glorious Russia unfold in parallax as you dine, making the occasional meal or drink there totally worth it. There’s also the bonus of meeting locals and fellow travellers for mostly rewarding but sometimes awkward encounters.
Probably the best way we found was to bring loads of food and water. Each carriage has unlimited access to hot water so instant noodles and mashed potato pots are awesome. There are also Russian delicacies almost custom-made for long train journeys – we loved finely crafted salami-like sausage and dark breads, smoked strings of cheese, canned caviar and sweet snacks. Washed down with vodka, of course. A lot of these are available at small kiosks on the platforms at major stops, but to be certain, hit a supermarket before your journey. Note also that sale of alcohol is now forbidden after 11pm.
Things to Bring
As well as food and drink mentioned above, we found these things almost essential:
Slippers, comfy shorts (even in mid-winter), pocketknife with corkscrew, small plastic plates, hand sanitiser, wet tissues, a fork or chopsticks, a 3m electric extension cable, playing cards. You’ll receive fresh linen and a small hand towel on arrival, and can ask your Provodnitsa for an elegant Russian coffee mug for use on your trip. Resist the temptation to steal it.
Stops
Most people stop along the way in several places, not just to break the journey, but to experience life and culture across Russia. We stopped at Irkutsk and Lake Baikal (a must in our opinion – to read about it, see our blog post) and of course there are as many other places of interest along the 9,288 km as there are things to be interested by so do a little research and pick somewhere that appeals to you for stay.
There are also about 3 or 4 stops of 20+ minutes each day. These are great for snatching some fresh air, stretching your legs and stocking up on snacks and drinks. Check the timetable in the corridor and be ready to leap out of the train (remember – it’s in Moscow time, and the stop will be shorter if the train arrived slightly delayed!) You’ll get really cool photo and filming opportunities too, with some stations displaying old steam train engines, while the stations themselves are sometimes pretty amazing.
Trainlag
You’ve probably had jetlag, but a directly East-West (or vice versa) journey on a train for days on end will mess with your body clock too. Our journey crossed 7 time zones. Essentially, every night on a train saw us staying up – and waking up – in local time an hour later each day, until eventually we were shattered unless we slept until early afternoon. Basically we reverted to a student lifestyle, and discovered that trainlag happens too.
We’d love to hear from you! If you’re thinking of going and you’ve got specific questions for the Rat & Dragon team, please drop us a line in the comments box below and we’ll do our best to get you some answers. If you’ve already been, please tell us about your experience, and if you have tips to share, don’t keep them to yourself – slap them in the comments box below.
All, Destinations
Mad and mighty Moscow looms out at you from the heavy Russian sky as you soak it up from street level. Stalin-esque neo-gothic skyscrapers seem the perfect lairs for comic book super villains. Years of Russian-accented movie bad guys – from Despicable Me’s Gru to just about every Bond villain come to mind, and the presence of hard-looking, fur-hatted soldiers in the streets almost makes it seem as if something’s about to kick off…
But look a little closer. Woven through the multitude of anachronistic Soviet-era iconography that flavour the streets lay the threads of a complex, vivacious, and youthful new culture that dreams and aspires and creates. Colour, street art, performance and life throbs through the city.
So enjoy the feeling as your preconceptions are affirmed and then obliterated and you realise that the only battle is between what you think you know about Moscow, and what you actually discover in this sensational, scary, sexy and sophisticated city.
Here are Rat & Dragon’s Moscow must-dos when you visit. Let the battle begin…
1. Moscow Metro
Even the “M” logo for the Metro is blood red, pointy and intimidating. You’d expect it emblazoned on a super villain’s underpants. When you step inside, grandiose chandeliers, intricate mosaics and bronzes of Soviet idylls dazzle. As you descend deeper, down seemingly ancient escalators, Lenin stares down at you from a galaxy of red Soviet stars and hammer and sickle icons. You’re in the Moscow Metro, and you’re surrounded by the USSR.
2. Red October
Sounds staunch, but Red October is originally the site of a famous chocolate factory, and the narrow lanes of this up-and-coming district are now adorned in street art. Once industrial passageways now lead to edgy new art galleries, cafes, clubs and music venues.
3. Flea Market
Weekends only and about 30 minutes outside Moscow, this market is retro collector’s wet dream. Every Russian stereotype is laid out for you on a blanket on the snow, and is available for you to own at a tiny number of Rubbles. Garish fur hats and coats, Soviet military uniforms and paraphernalia, metal toy tanks and veritable Red Army of Lenin statues in a thousand different imperious, fatherly and scholarly poses await. Rat & Dragon added a mechanical Soviet 8mm film camera to our kit list.
4. Didus Plasticine Café
Once accustomed to the plasticine smell, you’ll be amazed by the variety of miniature artworks clinging to every surface as locals and visitors come to vent their creative energies into lumps of coloured clay provided on each table. Food, coffee and beer are all good here so don’t just admire. Get creating!
5. Monuments to the Cosmos and Workers and Collective Farmers
Moscow is peppered with Soviet monuments, but none are as truly monumental as these two. Designed to make you feel the power of the Soviet Union at it’s zenith of achievement, these are so idealistic, moving and generally so damn massive, they almost made us swap our cameras and mics for hammers and sickles. Almost.
6. Moscow Nightlife
Just as well there’s a thriving scene because in winter, there’s a lot more night time than day. Bar 3205 attracts lively students and creative professionals with slick tunes, delicious Russian recipes with a new-school twist and in winter, a great fire-side vibe. In summer, it’s surrounding gardens host deck chairs and live music.
Special thanks to the Twins of Chaos; Dasha and Masha and to fellow travel-blogger and local Stepan for their insider knowledge and guidance as the Rat & Dragon crew filmed the front lines in the battle between preconception and the living Moscow.
